By Alexander Sterling | Editor-in-Chief, MAXIM Fashion

Luxury watchmaking often celebrates progress through increasingly complicated movements, innovative materials, and elaborate designs. Yet sometimes, the most compelling statement comes from looking backward. With its new Classic Fusion Tributo collection, Swiss watchmaker Hublot returns to the idea that helped establish its identity in 1980: the unexpected combination of precious gold and black rubber.

Introduced in Milan on October 15, 2026, the two new watches revisit the original vision of founder Carlo Crocco while incorporating the technical expertise developed by the manufacture over more than four decades. Available in yellow gold and white gold, the Classic Fusion Tributo is not simply a nostalgic exercise. It is a considered reinterpretation of the design philosophy that made Hublot distinctive in the first place. <Cite refs={[“turn754282search0″,”turn754282search2”]}/>

For a brand recognised for its bold approach to materials and contemporary luxury, the collection represents an opportunity to demonstrate how a foundational idea can remain relevant without losing its original character.

The Revolutionary Idea That Started It All

When Carlo Crocco introduced the original Hublot watch in 1980 under the MDM Genève name, the luxury watch industry operated according to relatively established conventions. Precious metals, traditional leather straps, and familiar design codes dominated much of the market.

Crocco chose a different direction.

Inspired by the shape of a ship’s porthole, the watch featured a distinctive bezel secured by twelve exposed screws, a restrained dial, and a black rubber strap paired with a gold case. The combination challenged expectations about what a luxury timepiece should look and feel like.

Rubber was particularly unconventional in this context. Although practical and comfortable, it was rarely associated with the refinement expected of expensive Swiss watches. By combining it with gold, Crocco created a contrast that was immediately recognisable and fundamentally different from the traditional aesthetic of luxury watchmaking.

That original decision eventually became central to Hublot’s identity and its philosophy of the Art of Fusion: bringing together materials, influences, and ideas that might initially appear incompatible.

The Classic Fusion Tributo revisits this founding concept with a clear understanding that the original’s strength lies in its simplicity. Rather than redesigning the watch beyond recognition, Hublot has retained the visual elements that made it memorable.

Two Gold Interpretations, One Distinctive Identity

The new collection arrives in two variations, each offering a different interpretation of the same design.

The yellow-gold version is the more direct tribute to Crocco’s original creation. Its warm precious-metal case contrasts with a black lacquered dial that features a subtle charcoal effect. The black rubber strap reinforces the original combination of luxury and practicality, while the gold MDM signature at six o’clock recalls the branding associated with the earliest Hublot watches.

The white-gold version adopts a more understated approach. Its polished black onyx dial creates a deep, refined appearance, complemented by black screws and a darker aesthetic throughout the design.

While the yellow-gold edition emphasises continuity with the original watch, the white-gold interpretation feels more formal and restrained. Both, however, share the same fundamental proportions, construction, and mechanical architecture.

Each model features a 38-millimetre case, slightly larger than the original 36-millimetre design. The twelve bezel screws remain prominent, and the largely uncluttered dial retains its date display at three o’clock. Exposed lugs and the lined black rubber strap complete the familiar silhouette. <Cite refs={[“turn754282search1″,”turn754282search3”]}/>

These details demonstrate that the collection is not attempting to reinvent an already established design. Instead, it refines the original while respecting its proportions and visual identity.

Traditional Appearance, Modern Mechanics

Although the exterior remains faithful to the original concept, the most significant transformation takes place inside the case.

The 1980 Hublot used a quartz movement, reflecting the technology available at the time. The new Classic Fusion Tributo, by contrast, incorporates a self-winding manufacture movement, bringing contemporary mechanical watchmaking into a design that originally prioritised simplicity.

The automatic HUB1711 calibre operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers an approximately 50-hour power reserve. Its construction reflects Hublot’s development in movement engineering, replacing the original quartz architecture with a mechanical system designed for modern luxury watchmaking. <Cite refs={[“turn754282search3″,”turn754282search5”]}/>

One of the most distinctive features is the open-worked oscillating weight, shaped like the Hublot letter H. Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, it connects the movement’s mechanical function with the brand’s visual identity.

The contrast between the exterior and interior is particularly interesting. From the front, the watch remains deliberately minimal, with very little ornamentation competing for attention. Turn it over, however, and the movement reveals a more technical dimension.

The result is a timepiece that respects the simplicity of its origins while acknowledging how far the manufacture has progressed.

Designed With Purpose

Every element of the Classic Fusion Tributo contributes to its overall character. The gold case provides the unmistakable presence of a precious metal, while the rubber strap introduces a contemporary sporting quality.

The screw-down crown supports water resistance to 100 metres, giving the watch practical capability alongside its luxurious materials. The decision to omit Hublot’s One Click strap-changing system is also deliberate, preserving the original construction and the relationship between the case and strap. <Cite refs={[“turn754282search0″,”turn754282search3”]}/>

These choices reflect an important principle in product design: refinement does not necessarily require adding more features. Sometimes, a stronger identity emerges from understanding which elements should remain untouched.

For collectors familiar with Hublot’s more expressive designs, the Classic Fusion Tributo offers a quieter alternative. It relies less on visual complexity and more on proportion, contrast, material quality, and historical significance.

That restraint may ultimately be one of its most appealing qualities.

A Tribute Beyond Watchmaking

The collection also carries a personal connection to Carlo Crocco’s philanthropic work.

The MDM initials appearing on the yellow-gold dial recall the original MDM Genève signature, while also referencing the Main Dans la Main Foundation, established by Crocco in 1998. The foundation supports humanitarian and educational projects aimed at helping vulnerable children and communities in need.

To mark the launch, Hublot has announced a donation of CHF 100,000 to the foundation, extending the tribute beyond the watch itself. <Cite refs={[“turn754282search0″,”turn754282search4”]}/>

This gesture gives the collection an additional dimension. It connects the original creative vision with the values and personal commitments of the person who established the brand.

In luxury, heritage is often expressed through design archives, historical references, and celebrated milestones. Here, the connection extends to a philanthropic initiative that has remained important to the founder for decades.

Modern Luxury Through the Lens of Heritage

The Classic Fusion Tributo arrives at a time when many luxury brands are revisiting their archives, looking for designs that retain their relevance across generations. The challenge is to preserve what made an original creation distinctive without allowing it to become trapped in the past.

Hublot’s latest release addresses that challenge by retaining the visual language of the 1980 watch while updating its movement, finishing, and construction.

Both the yellow-gold and white-gold versions are priced at $30,900 in the United States, excluding applicable taxes, and are available through selected Hublot points of sale and the brand’s official website. <Cite refs={[“turn754282search1″,”turn754282search3”]}/>

For collectors, the appeal lies in the combination of a historically significant design, contemporary mechanical engineering, and a material pairing that remains closely associated with the brand.

The Enduring Power of a Bold Idea

More than four decades after Carlo Crocco introduced the original Hublot, the combination of gold and rubber continues to communicate a distinctive vision of luxury. The Classic Fusion Tributo demonstrates that an influential design does not always need radical transformation to remain relevant.

By revisiting the original watch in yellow and white gold, Hublot brings its founding philosophy into the present while acknowledging the technical development that has taken place since 1980.

The result is a collection that balances heritage with modern craftsmanship, restraint with character, and precious materials with an unconventional sporting element.

For MAXIM Fashion, the Classic Fusion Tributo represents a compelling example of how luxury design can evolve without losing its identity. Its greatest strength lies not in excess, but in the confidence to return to a simple idea and execute it with greater depth.

Sometimes, the most powerful statement in watchmaking is not about moving away from the past. It is about understanding exactly what made the past remarkable, and giving that idea a futu